 A couple of weeks ago we delivered our third child to university in London. Like most adolescents you don't get much conversation between the grunts but since he has endured a severe episode of Crohn's Disease (for which there is no known cure yet) we are more tolerant and lenient. During the last two weeks his mum has worried that he is managing to cook and cater for himself with his anti-inflammatory diet based on the Specific Carbohydrate Diet - SCD - suitable for sufferers of Crohn's, Colitis, IBD and coeliac disease. The following week we took our second child to Bath to take a Masters Degree and whilst son has proven to be extremely capable of keeping himself fed and active, she has been unhappy having left her friends and band members in Liverpool. All of this makes Mum concerned and so when we left home to spend a couple of days by ourselves in the place we regard as a paradise on earth there was a certain amount of trepidation.
We arrived in Lancrigg at the foot of Helms Cragg near Grasmere in the early afternoon of Sunday after a 2.5 hour drive filled with musical memories espacially Roy Harper. The sun was warm and the sky blue. The Lancrigg Country House Hotel is in the most wonderful setting near Easedale and is a vegetarian and vegan establishment that we first stayed at some 21 years ago, just after Robert and Janet took it over. Like us they have children away at university and also like us they are fairly close knit and relish each others company. The hotel is an ancient building that was visited by Charles Dickens and William Wordsworth at different times but it has a magic about it with beautiful grounds to explore and no shortage of outstanding walks to take in the breathtaking beauty of the localle. Of all the places we visit on a regular basis, this valley has become the most often visited. We would have liked to stay at the hotel more often but on the balance of priorities, raising the kids has always been our preference.
After unloading the suitcases and checking into the hotel, we left them in our room and drove down to Ambleside to check out any musical events that may be happening whilst in the vicinty. Unfortunately although Larry Coryell is playing this evening we would miss it so we contented ourselves with grabbing a coffee and cake in Zefferelli's. Zef's is a Restaurant/Cafe and Cinema and is entirely vegetarian, showing up to date movies. We Ambled around Ambleside and Wandered around Windemere before heading back to Grasmere to amble some more and then back to the hotel to get fed. Having gotten the shops out of the way for she who has to check out the shops, we had a wonderful dinner at the hotel and both felt entirely 'pogged' like you get on Christmas Day after a good feast. The hotel was not very full, in fact just three couples and we all retired to our rooms after eating. We read and listened to some music before getting an early night. On Monday morning we awoke quite early. I opened the window shutters to reveal the valley splendantly shrouded in rising mist and whispy clouds. I opened a window to let in the sound of the dawn chorus and the wonderful country air. We dressed and went downstairs, and let ourselves out into the morning for a walk before breakfast. It was so sublimely peaceful and still. The massive sequoia trees were wet with the mist and dew formed on their leaves and branches. Acorns were popping as they fell to the ground from the Oak trees interspersed between the great beech trees. The jackdaws cackled at each other from the 18th Century chimney tops and ruffled their feathers. We walked through the trees and smelt again the enchanting resinous aromas of the larches and cedars as we descended towards the stream in the valley bottom. The sky was brightening despite the cloud cover and the dampness and we walked back towards the hotel to breakfast and make the best of the day ahead. Its very difficult to believe that we've been together almost 35 years. Married for 30 but we've had children with us for 27 years. So this is in fact the first time we've actually been on our own for any length of time in 27 years. Arriving back at the hotel we ate a simple breafast and drank coffee before heading back out to walk up to the waterfall beneath Easedale Tarn, one of our favourite walks. The persistent rain over several weeks has soaked the hills and aquifers so the fountain and the stream below were swollen like we'd never seen them before. There were quite a few walkers about as this is a popular place even though its off most people's radar. We walked up towards the falls and paused to take some pictures and just soak in the scenery. I'm not going to bore you to death with all the details but we had a truly uplifting time that has recharged the batteries for a while. We visited Keswick later in the day and took a photograph of the building that used to be a Vegetarian Guest House and where we stayed on our honeymoon. The October colours are absolutely amazing, with the trees turning to rich reds, yellows and browns between the greens of hardy deciduous and evergreens. The road between Grasmere and Keswick passes Thirlmere, fuller than I've seen it in years and through the spectacular valley where St John's in the Vale is. The cloud and mist enhances the experience and we didn't miss the sunshine. This part of the Lake District can be enjoyed in almost any weather. We enjoyed the dinner that evening but decided not to empty the plate being quite full and satisfied with 3.5 courses. We struck up a conversation with a slightly older couple in the lounge after dinner that went on until 11:30. It was fascinating and the range of topics covered families and music and politics. It turned out this guy was formerly a manager of a rock band in which his son played and the lead guitarist was a Crohn's sufferer. Serendipity or not, there seemed to be some purpose in explaining the diet we put our son on that obviated the need for steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs.
Tuesday was much brighter and sadly we had to check out by 11am. We decided to take a leisurely route home and drove around the Southern Lakeland in brilliant sunshine before picking up the M6 and heading South. We were about twenty miles North of Blackpool when a voicemail message from Robert at the hotel advised us that four parcels had arrived containing perishable goods. Being half way home and in the middle of Lifemask we had to decide whether or not to go back and collect them or continue home. However since rationalle didn't win the argument we returned to the hotel arriving at about ten to six. The parcels contained flowers, fruit, a vase and a helium filled balloon! They cost us three hours driving and half a tank of petrol! My eldest in Canada had ordered them to be delivered the day before but the UK doesn't work the way it used to. Funny how music can make a journey better. Back home about nine we ate and chatted about the last couple of days. We never argued or disagreed or fell out. No kids about! Even so they can have an impact from afar and Mr B probably took more in duty than the perishable goods cost. BTW if anyone of a veggie or vegan persuasion is looking for somewhere to stay, I sincerely recommend the Lancrigg but go with an open mind and open heart and it will reveal itself. regards Pete
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